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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.